A Day in The Highlands

“The Highlands” is really a broad term that encompasses many different ecological terrains. Ancient Scots pines line the Lui Water and River Dee one minute, and then suddenly you are in the low golden brush of the Cairngorms with only the muffled sound of the passing wind. There’s nothing like the miles of electric mauve colored heather that consumes the mountainside during late summer. On our hike, one path led us to Royal Lochnagar, a small single malt Scotch distillery next to the Balmoral Estate after a discussion with a fellow hiker about the beauty of whisky and fresh cream on porridge in the morning. Another path led us deep into a ravine surrounded by the Caledonian Pine Forest and bookended by the Meall an Lundain and Sgór Dubh hills. All roads lead back into town to the Hauser & Wirth hotel, The Fife Arms. In the back of the hotel is Bertie’s Bar which is really a whisky library more than a traditional pub. With over 500 bottles in the collection, the whisky is grouped by flavor profiles rather than age or maker. Designed by Russell Sage, taking cues from the old alchemist’s shops, he designed the space to feel like the bottles were tinctures or elixirs rather than just alcohol. There isn’t a menu. Instead, the bartender comes to your table and curates a selection that matches your preferences. The whisky that is chosen is poured, and then a metal disc on the table is moved to reveal a small pin light where the bottle is placed and remains illuminated during the rest of your visit. As for Fife Arms itself, it is more than just a hotel; it is a museum. In the foyer, across from the salvaged hand-carved Robert Burns Chimney-Piece, is a portrait by Lucian Freud. In the sitting room a Picasso hangs on the tartan plaid walls alongside 1930s roll-arm couches clad in dark floral tapestry fabric with a hand-painted ceiling mural by Zhang Enli. A world that would have made even Duke Jean des Esseintes jealous.